Imagine a world where timepieces aren’t just functional tools but dazzling works of art that double as coveted accessories. This is the reality shaping the luxury market today, as bangle watches emerge as a powerhouse driving brand growth. The fusion of fine watchmaking and high jewelry has sparked a revolution, captivating younger, style-conscious consumers and redefining what it means to wear a watch.
But here’s where it gets controversial: Are these creations primarily jewelry or timepieces? The answer, it seems, is both—and neither. Brands like Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Chanel are blurring these lines, crafting pieces that are as much about aesthetic allure as they are about technical precision. Take Vacheron Constantin’s Grand Lady Kalla, unveiled during its 270th-anniversary celebrations. Available in sapphire, ruby, and emerald variations, this masterpiece combines interchangeable components that transform from a watch to a bracelet or necklace, showcasing the brand’s dual mastery of artistry and engineering.
The trend gained momentum in 2019 when Van Cleef & Arpels introduced its Perlée Toi & Moi watches. These open bangles, adorned with colorful hardstones like rose quartz and jasper, reveal the time only when one of the stones is slid aside. This playful innovation highlights the brand’s expertise in both jewelry and horology, particularly its tradition of “secret watches.”
And this is the part most people miss: It’s not just about aesthetics. This shift reflects a strategic recalibration in a maturing luxury market. In 2021, Dior’s Gem Dior and Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette further solidified this trend, blending irregular, fabric-inspired links and pear-shaped designs that challenge traditional watchmaking norms. Boucheron’s Montres d’Exception collection, with its Place Vendôme-inspired dial, added another layer of creativity to this evolving category.
The real game-changer came in 2023 when Cartier reintroduced its Baignoire watch—originally from 1912—on a rigid gold bangle. Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s director of watchmaking and jewelry design, explains, “Our approach had to be understated yet radical. That’s why we chose the bangle, radical in its simplicity.” The launch was a phenomenon, with stock allocated before the watch even hit stores. By mid-August, the 18ct yellow and rose gold versions, priced at €15,900, had sold out, only to reappear later that autumn.
Kelly Best, head of UK watch buying for Watches of Switzerland, attributes Cartier’s success to its ability to tick multiple trend boxes: a petite case size, the timeless appeal of yellow gold, and a sleek bangle perfect for layering. Donatella Zappieri, a jewelry consultant, goes further, arguing that Cartier’s Baignoire has created “a new product category in its own right,” setting a blueprint for others to follow.
This autumn saw the debut of two such hybrids: Bvlgari’s Aeterna and Chanel’s Première Galon. Bvlgari’s open bangle, featuring geometric snake heads inspired by its Viper collection, offers a subtler take on its iconic Serpenti motif. Jonathan Birnbaum, Bvlgari’s managing director for watches, notes that this new aesthetic has already attracted new clients.
Chanel’s Première Galon, meanwhile, draws inspiration from the brand’s signature braid. Arnaud Chastaingt, director of Chanel’s Watchmaking Creation Studio, explains, “We didn’t simply add a braid to a watch; we made the braid the bracelet.” When asked whether the result is more jewel or timepiece, Chastaingt leaves the question open: “It is jewelry that tells time, and a watch that functions as a jewel.”
But here’s the question for you: As bangle watches continue to dominate the luxury market, are they redefining the very concept of a watch? Or are they simply the latest iteration of jewelry’s timeless allure? Let us know your thoughts in the comments—this is a debate that’s far from over.
